Scratched Glass ? - Cleaning Talk - Professional Cleaning and Restoration Forum

Invisible windows · 11-06-2006, 04:03 PM

First off all Thank you Nathan for welcming me to your site everybody else hello
I,m new to this site and am glad to have found it. I'm currently doing a construction window cleaning job and ran in to some sand paper scratches now does any body know a fairly priced working product ? i found a starterskit from Janville for a $100 does anybody know iif this stuff works ?

Thanks

**t.peterson** · 11-06-2006, 04:13 PM

I have used something similar to the janville products to fix scratches in glass caused by stucco overspray on windows of new construction jobs as well as razor scratches on other window jobs. They work well, though I would suggest doing some practice runs prior to trying it out on the job.

By the way - did you or your crew damage the windows? Or are you doing these repairs as an "add on" service? If add on - be sure to charge well for the service

Invisible windows · 11-06-2006, 05:15 PM

Thanks for the fast respond.
I did not scratch the windows this was exualy done by the painting crew so yes defenetly add on
one more ? Did you use a drill or a pollisher and or a grinder Im wondering cause I'm dealing with about 30 windows with this problem and trying to figure out what the timing would be , but i understand this would be difficult to awnser without exually seeing it
thanks a lot.

**t.peterson** · 11-06-2006, 05:34 PM

we used a dremel rotary tool with ours, since we could better control the speed. Call me paranoid, I was afraid to working too quickly and causing more damage

Invisible windows · 11-08-2006, 12:34 PM

Thank you Mr peterson that sounds like an exelent idea I can't believe I didn't think of this myself Then again what else is this forum for
Thanks a lot
Invisible Windows

**t.peterson** · 11-08-2006, 12:37 PM

your welcome. Good luck with your project

Theresa

Invisible windows · 11-08-2006, 12:46 PM

Oh Don't I feel like a fool. my deepest appology mrs Peterson.

**t.peterson** · 11-08-2006, 12:52 PM

LOL, no worries, I get that alot from just putting an Initial on my name.
Friends and Family just call me T. so feel free to also do so

clearly professional · 11-09-2006, 08:33 PM

Janvil has a fine product for the price. I do scratch repair almost full time. I focus on CCU windows...there is a method and it takes time. Not just the method but the actually removing...it can be a real drag. BUT...rather than get all into the "pads" they sell,...do this:

Either use cerium oxide or the paste janvil sells. BUT be sure to buy a new spray bottle and ONLY put distilled water in the bottle. DO NOT USE tap water. The minerals in tap water cause tooo much work. Cut time is drastically reduced when using distille or DI water.

If you go w/the rotary tool, be sure to keep the RPM BELOW 2000. Buy a felt wheel or pad. Put some paste or cerium onto the pad using a clean. plastic knife or plastic putty blade...do not use stainless steel or any metal. Just a dab of paste or cerium at the time...lightly mist the glass with water every so often. If the damage is near the edges and it is tempered glass be very careful not to over heat. the edges will snap way faster than the center....after all tempered glass dices rather than breaks.

I can walk you through the whole thing if you wish. Just let me know.Again, this is my business and I am very experienced at scratch removal. there are No scratches i cannot remove...but there are plenty you dont want to pay for.

**t.peterson** · 11-10-2006, 12:17 AM

Great information Clearly professional, thanks for sharing.

Invisible windows · 11-11-2006, 03:48 PM

Thank you Clearly Professional for your reply I just ordered the janvil package and can,t wait to try this stuff out got some scrp glass to try it on so il let you know .

clearly professional · 11-17-2006, 05:12 PM

Good choice. There are other products available that might serve your needs better as yor experience level rises. I stop by here twice a week or so and will happily join in with conversation about different methods, tricks and tips for different glass/damage.

Here's a learnng curve tip: Be sure to try and figur this all out with annealed (regular cheap) glass. Scratches come out way faster reducing stress level.

Many try to learn on old automobile glass and end up getting wigged out.

clearly professional · 11-17-2006, 05:15 PM

Oh...if you ever need it, I can email you my cell number with best times to call. I do hi-rise CCU window cleaning and scratch removal from around 7 AM TO 230 OR 3 pm EVERY DAY BUT REUTRN CALLS WHEN i HIT THE GROUND...ASSUMING i HIT THE GROUND THE RIGHT WAY sorry, I type looking at the key board...didnt know i was yelling...Beer thrity boys and gilrs. save me a seat at the bar.

clearly professional · 11-19-2006, 08:10 AM

Here's another tip:

Even thoug speed is important...high speed is not. Obviously the faster one can go the faster the damage will be removed. To a point...first, speed is heat and heat is bad...too much heat will pop a tempered glass is a hrry. But too little speed will cause too much work.

The right speed depends on the materila of the pad...felt, cotton, wooden bob etc....and the solution used for polishing/grinding.

If the "paste" slings out from under the pad...you will be using more paste more often to replace the paste you slung out, you will make a bigger mess and you wont get the damage out.

RPM's matter...but so do IPM (inch per minute) that refers to how fast the part of the pad that is touching the glass is going.

If the pad is three inches spining at 2000 RPM and you are using the very outside edge of the pady...the actual speed is how fast THAT portion of the pads is going...IPM. Outside of circles are fast than inside of circles...RPM is measuring the inside...the ortation...not the speed.

So, in order to learn your speed keep two things in mind:

Do NOT go so fast your paste slings out too fast
Go fast enough to cause the paste the begin to dry in less then four seconds...

do no soak the pad or glass with water....spritz it...do not soak a heated glass with cool water over and over...you'll pop the glass.

Just enough, often enough to keep the glass "cool"...the glass is going to get hot...but not so hot you cant touch it...hot enouogh you will KNOW you touched it...but you dont want to water to steam off...

hope this helps.

some one please remove the sad face fron this thread...

MDM Cleaning & Sanitizing · 05-12-2007, 03:14 PM

First of all if it was caused by sub contractors contact the main contractor and tell him or you might get blamed they are supposed to prep they windows right. Thats one thing we do is write down everything we find wrong so he doesn't charge you for it plus it make you look good if you care a little about the project. Repeat sales.

JackieCleaner · 05-12-2007, 03:45 PM

we always walk the house with the superintendent before we begin glass cleaning to look for any damage to frames, sills and glass, this way we cannot be blamed or backcharged for other trades shoddy work!

JackieCleaner · 05-12-2007, 03:48 PM

hi clearlty professional. i have a question for you. somestimes the stucco guys or painters use a plastic over the windows and they leave it on too long. When you pull the plastic it leaves a halo or oily looking film where the plastic was stuck to the glass. sometimes you can see it clearly and other times when the light hits a certain way. have tried everything i can thing of to get it off, any suggestions? spoke to my regular window installer and they haven't figured out how to remove it either!