How do I clean Stocco - Cleaning Talk - Professional Cleaning and Restoration Forum
 
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post #1 of Old 07-10-2006, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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How do I clean Stocco

I am new to pressure washing but looks like a am going to get the bid on 35 apartment buildings and they have a stocco front on each building. What chemicals should I use and how nuch pressure will they take? They are not really thay dirty to look at but the rest is vinyl sided. It has some mold/mildew on it.

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Ron
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post #2 of Old 07-10-2006, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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As u can see I can't spell stucco at least thats how I think ya spell it.
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post #3 of Old 07-10-2006, 04:26 PM
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As u can see I can't spell stucco at least thats how I think ya spell it.
I just thought you were maybe English

I did a 50/50 outdoor bleach to water mix but I was a painter and not the pressure washing pros that these guys are. I'm sure they will tell me that I screwed up everyones house by doing that

Anyways, I'd wait on one of them to answer as they are the experts here

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post #4 of Old 07-10-2006, 04:27 PM
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BTW Ron... Welcome to the site!

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post #5 of Old 07-10-2006, 04:50 PM
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Ron, stucco (if it is real stucco as opposed to dryvit) is durable and can handle 500-1000 psi. The best cleaner combination is sodium metasilicate, TSP and sodium hypochlorite in a stronger concentration. You can X-Jet this mixture on and often get away with just rinsing.

If the surface is very dirty, you are going to have to wash every inch of it with some pressure to be sure it comes clean. Stucco is usually 200%-300% more expensive to clean than vinyl siding. Do a test spot to see what type of attention the surface will need after you apply your chems. If you skip this step and underbid you will regret it. I find this is also a good way to show the complex management what type of results they can expect.

If you are looking for a packaged cleaner, Powerhouse by Sunbrite (www.sunbritesupply.com) is a good cleaner.

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post #6 of Old 07-10-2006, 08:29 PM
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Ken, so how do you recommend cleaning dryvit? How much pressure will it take?

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post #7 of Old 07-10-2006, 09:36 PM
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I never hit it with much more than garden hose pressure.
Unless I'm really feeling like rolling the dice (I don't very often) I pull the hose on the downstreamer and rinse with my soap tip to be safe.

Lots of chems and dwell time is the key.

The dryvit down here is very hit-or-miss as far as quality goes. You definitely don't want to be the one that pulled the trigger when substandard dryvit starts peeling off of the front of someone's house.
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post #8 of Old 07-10-2006, 09:47 PM
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I'm with Thad on that one. The lowest you can get away with. I use a 6515 and kep my distance. You really have to watch around windows.

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post #9 of Old 07-11-2006, 12:07 AM
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I'm with Thad on that one. The lowest you can get away with. I use a 6515 and kep my distance. You really have to watch around windows.
i see lots of drivit and you guys are right on target !!!! low pressure rinse and chem dwell time
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post #10 of Old 07-11-2006, 06:33 AM
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Always be careful with Drivit. Make note and get customer to sign off on any cracks or holes that are present before you start. There was a lawsuit Concerning Drivit and I believe a settlement. So, now if there is a problem with the Drivit, greedy lawyers will come after the last guy to touch it.

Not sure of the specifics, but you could probably find out more with a search.

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post #11 of Old 07-11-2006, 06:54 AM
 
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Any Dryvit installed after 2000 should be okay as they implemented new techniques to allow the wall behind it to breathe. Pre 2000 saw lots of replacements being performed by contractors due to moisture getting trapped and causing mold and rot issues.

The above suggestions of low pressure and extreme caution are advised for ALL Dryvit. It is basically styrofoam with a skim coating of stucco on top to describe it in simple terms. An misstep with pressure will blow a hole in it faster than you can imagine. Soap tip, good chems and soft rinse. The front of my house is Dryvit and I just rinse with the garden hose.

Best of luck.
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post #12 of Old 07-11-2006, 11:16 PM
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Any Dryvit installed after 2000 should be okay as they implemented new techniques to allow the wall behind it to breathe. Pre 2000 saw lots of replacements being performed by contractors due to moisture getting trapped and causing mold and rot issues.

The above suggestions of low pressure and extreme caution are advised for ALL Dryvit. It is basically styrofoam with a skim coating of stucco on top to describe it in simple terms. An misstep with pressure will blow a hole in it faster than you can imagine. Soap tip, good chems and soft rinse. The front of my house is Dryvit and I just rinse with the garden hose.

Best of luck.
i enjoy cleaning it i have a ton of it to clean on a hospital office in the morning and i am sooo looking foward to it
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post #13 of Old 07-12-2006, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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How do you know that you have Dryvit and not stucco? and thank you for the good info so far.

and your not scaring me a bit.
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post #14 of Old 07-12-2006, 09:13 AM
 
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I know I have Dryvit because it was speced in the house by the builders.

If you are not sure just tap on it. If it feels and sounds like solid stucco you will know. Dryvit has a "hollow" sound and feel. Think of the styrofoam core on Dryvit and you will be able to spot it. If in doubt low pressure chem with a soft rinse should clean both I imagine. I am no pro so hopefully others will chime in.
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post #15 of Old 07-12-2006, 11:28 AM
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How do you know that you have Dryvit and not stucco? and thank you for the good info so far.

and your not scaring me a bit.

Tap on it, if the substrate sounds hollow you have dryvit. If it's dense like concrete, it's probably stucco.

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post #16 of Old 07-19-2006, 06:51 AM
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Hey guys, stop working so hard. Let your chem do the work. With the right mix you can clean dirt and mildew off a piece of paper! Let it dry and write a letter.
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