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I have ran into three homes where the customers expected to have the yellow removed from there carpet after they have let the soiled spots sit for months and months. I lightened the spots but couldn't get the staining out. what do I need to use? :sick:
 

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Sounds like the urine has bleached the carpet.

I would try a enzyme product to break down the urine and then clean.
If the carpet is still discolerd then its probally perminant
 

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Urine can be very tough. Are you an actuall carpet cleaner?
There are several reasons why you will probably not get the stains out after they have sat for awhile. I won't bore you with all of the particulars, but one is the fact that urine begins to break down by producing bacteria and enzymes. During this process, one of the off gasses is ammonia, which will set the "stain" permanently. However, depending on the type of carpet (olefin, nylon, poly) you may be able to lighten the stain using a peroxide based urine stain remover, such as prochem's urine rescue. If the homeowner has tried everything on it, forget about it and move on. You do not want to take responsibility for the damage they have caused that untill you cleaned it was non apparent.

az
 

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Urine can be very tough. Are you an actuall carpet cleaner?
az
This is an excellent question. Now adays any one who purchases some equipment can easily get into the cleaning carpets................ However, there is an extreme science that comes with being a professional carpet cleaner. That science is taught over time and with classes.

Alot of damage can be done by using incorrect procedures for cleaning and stain removal, thus one of the reasons why the carpet manufacturer's are opting to validate their warrenties only if a certified cleaning professional is used to clean after installation
 

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good point T.

I am not sure I agree with the certification craze that is going on, but it is a start. For me it is just a marketing strategy, since the classes really don't teach me much. For a beginner though, it is a real eye opener, but you still will not be able to go out and clean right after the class (atleast not to high standards). I can get really fired up on this subject, but we will have to start a whole new thread to do it.

I started the same way many carpet cleaners start, with no knowledge and very little money. It took me two years to learn what I taught my friend in less than a year, working a few jobs with him here and there. If I had to do it again, you better believe I would have taken a class first, then worked with someone who knew the biz. I have been going for over eight years now, and I still learn something new all the time. That is what I love about being in this biz, you can always learn new techniques and branch out into different things.

If anyone has anymore questions about carpet cleaning, tile and grout cleaning etc. I will do my best to answer them!

az
 

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I agree with AZ clean. I took an upholstery class, never ever cleaning upholstery previous to the class. It was a two day class and it was worth it. I took the test for certification for upholstery and fabric and passed without ever having been tested on different materials/stain combinations. I think the classes are worth it. Certification is OK for marketing purposes but really doesnt mean you can clean upholstery.
Most of my learning was done on my own furniture and trying different methods ie foam, spray prespray and acid rinse etc.. I also think its
a $$ maker for the IICRC.
 

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hi if it is urine in the carpet then if it is a wool mix and has been in more than a day or two the urine has turned alkaline and has bleached the carpet. you will not get it out, if it is poly prop you will
if it is poly try shift from craftex or a acid rinse ( fabric rinse ) with very hot water if this does not remove the yellow or it is a wool mix
then you can still make the carpet white again. go to a hairdressing supplier get a bottle of peroxide this will be either 60% or 30%
if it is 60 mix two water to one perox if 30% mix 50 50
spray it on the carpet and heat with a hair dryer ( THE HEAT IS TO ACTIVATE IT ) as you heat it you will see the carpet returning to white. do not soak the carpet so it goes though to the backing, once you are happy with the colour rinse with water then spray with fabric rinse to neutralize the alkaline, on odd occasions if the stain has been bad i have repeated the process twice, Remember rinse with a fabric rinse and do not use bleach under any circumstances. if it is polyprop just rinse with water there is no need for the fabric rinse
i have used this system many times. hope this helps mal
www.ritz-cleaners.co.uk
 

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You know if all else fails you may be able to use dinge away from pros choice to cover it up. It's made for worn traffic areas but may work on yellowing on white carpet if you use the white. They have tan as well as grey. We use this product at our company tampa carpet cleaning with great results.
 

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Did you try USR or BadDog? either one of those works quite well for me. I usually spray the spot with it as soon as I identify the problem. It then sits and dwell while I clean the rest of the home. After I extract it I will sometimes spray a bit on there and leave it as a post treatment. They just dry up to a white powder after the hydrogen peroxide is gone.
 

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Dilute white vinegar with equal portion water and saturate the carpet stain with this solution. After 30 minutes, take away as much of the liquid as possible. Some treatments may be necessary. The strong vinegar smell will dissolve once it’s dry. This is my recipe of removing pet urine!!


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